Friday 19th June 2009 - New Delhi

Hello again, Thomas here to begin with. We last left you in Ranthambhore having has rather close encounters with a bengal Tiger. From there we travelled to Agra in the afternoon.

This city is famous for one reason really. It is home to the Taj Mahal! This is one of the main reasons why both Anna and I wanted to visit India and let me tell you the Taj did not dissapoint. We went a sunrise because according to the guide this is the best time to view it, it's cool and there are fewer crowds. We were taken throught what looked to be a VIP entrance (once agaion demonstrating the class devide that is ingrained in the indian psyche, richer indians firmly beieve they are 'better' than the poorer people). As we rounded the corner to glimpse through the 'real' entrance gate we were blowen away (the second entrance gate is there so noone can see the Taj Mahal unless within the Taj compound, namely those people who have paid for the priviledge). I was completely speechless. There are no words to descirbe the beauty and magnificence of the Taj Mahal. The white marble they used caused it to stand out against the green grass and trees they have planted all around. As we walked closer along the water/fountain walkway leading up to the structure we made out black arabic writing around the side. According to the guide the writtings are famous quotes from the Qu'ran and it is inlaid in the white marble with Black sapphires. These sparkel in the sunlight and gives the tomb a shimmering quality.

I'll play the teacher now and give some details of the Taj, build 360 years ago for a price nowadays equivalent to 100's trillions dollars. It took 22 years to complete and was commisioned by the Moghal leader at the time as a temple/tomb/celebration for his, then, recently deceased wife. As we approached the main entrance to the tomb the guide pointed out that all round the Taj semi precious stones had been carved and laid into the walls. These made patterns of flowers and leaves ranging incolours from rust red, green, orange, mother of pearl and many others. Once inside these stones were even smaller some as small as your little fingernail and we were told could take 2 days to make a single piece (thats why it took 22 years to build). Inside it was tremendously decrative and as with the entire complex compltely symmetrical.

We walked around for an hour getting the tour and then spend 15 minutes sitting just looking at the Taj. Apparently in different lights it glows slightly different colours. I didn't see evidence of this but i only went at sunrise. The rest of the day didn't quite live up to the Taj but we did go to the workplace of the poeple who repair and conserve the Taj Mahal's intricate stone work.

we leart that only those who's decendants had worked on the Taj Mahal's construction are allowed to be part of the guild. They repair the Taj once a year and for the rest of the time they hone their skill. The table tops, chess boards, cutting boards, plates and trinkets we saw in this building were amazing. As we said to each other you would want to come here after working for 10 years so you could afford to by even one fo the items we saw. The time they spend on these items is incredible so table tops take 12 - 15 months and are sold for 100's of pounds. I was glad to hear that a portion of the entrance money to the Taj is given to the guild.

After this we retired to the hotel to shower, relax and eat before entering the final and probably most stressful phase of our tour. With our driver heading back to Delhi we were catching an overnight train to Varanasi. Those of you who have seen the trains in Slumdog Millionaire will realise why we were not looking forward to this section of the tour. I will had you over to Anna for the gory details.

So, we arrive at the train station one hour before departure. Luckily it is a relatively small station and wasn't overly busy on the platform and we got a seat in the first class waiting room. Unfortunately our train we an hour delayed so we had 2 hour pondering what we would do if the train was truely horrendous. Decided if it was really that bad we were gona got back to the hotel and head back to delhi. The train pulled up and oh dear god. The first carriages past were exactally like the ones on slum dog - blue with no windows and chocker blocked with people. I actually can not exlain how many people where squished into one carriage it was crazy! SOOOOO happy at this point we decided to go second class with air con as this secion of the train pulled up and was actually ok. We had seats that folded out into beds and where given sheets pillows and blankets. so all in all we were actually very comfy. We slept with our heads on our rucksacks and cuddling our day sacks and felt pretty safe since the only people who could access our carriage were the other second class passangers taking our train.

We finally made it to Varanasi station, delayed even more and took 15hours!, and had paid for the hotel to pick us up at the staion. Well, that didnt really go according to plan. After wandering a very busy and manic station we found noone with the sign like we were told to expect. We didn't have the address of the hotel and both tired and hot and all we wanted to do was get to the hotel and have a shower so you can imagine we were not in the best of moods. None of the taxis knew the name of the hotel but luckily we had the number. so finally we called the hotel very annoyed as they weren't there and now having to use our mobile to call them. The said our guy was there but becuase it ended up 3 hours delayed he had gone home - like that is our fault!! told to get a tuk tuk driver to bring us and they would pay us back. Well suprise suprise he had no idea where it was as it turns out it is ridiculously hard to find. We had to call them back to get them to give him directions. We finally get on our way but he still cant find it and we have to call AGAIN! finally they come and pick us up from where we were and we had to wait in the mid day sun for them to get there. Obviously none of this would have happened if they had picked us up in the first place! FINALLY arrive at hotel and thomas gives them a bit of telling off as we had paid for them to be there and they weren't. They said they would upgrade us to the best room as compensation. Well, that was a joke. Best room and: tiny bathroom with, leaking toilet, no toilet paper, a tap that only drips, a shower with only cold water and also only dribbles, room generally dusty and bit gubby, a/c that is on the floor and barely works, tv that isnt tuned properly and broken fridge. Only saving grace was that it did have a really nice view of the Ganges. As you can imagine we were very unimpressed and couldn't believe they sent us here after all the other nice hotels they sent us to.

Its getting to the end of our travelling and both pretty tired of hopping around lots of different places I think it just pushed us over the edge and so had a few depressed hours in the room contemplating what to do with ourselves for the next 2 days. the hotel is in a labarinth of streets so you cant really venture out without a guide and the main sights are temples (we decided we'd seen enough of those already). So we decided to stay in a play cards in our sweltering room. oh and to top it off, as it seems to be custom in india, we had a power cut most of the day so our ac wasnt even on! Dinner was a very bland and tastless curry - aparently they do exist. In the eve we decied to take a boat trip down the ganges to see the ceremonies varanasi is famous for. They are Hindu and believe if the dead are cremated on the banks of the Ganges they will find paradise. Was interesting to see and actually rather plesant being on a boat coasting along the ganges just taking in the atmosphere.

We had dinner when we arrived back at the hotel and went to bed.

Hi Thomas again, well we awoke the next day and spent it wittling away the hours until our train to Delhi. Train exzperience was pretty good this time we sat in the foreign tourist office and given Varanasi was the negining stop we didn't have the mad rush for the train that you usually get. This time though we were in 3rd class so instead of 6 people per compartment it was 9. Bit cramped but made worse by the family in our area having a small child as well who didn't have a seat. Well there you go no point getting annoyed and we were happy to be gettin back to Delhi. 15 hour journey wasn't too bad and we both slept pretty well considering the cramped space. When i tell you that we have to slepp with our big bags on the bed space as they do not fit under the seats on the bottom layer you will understand that space was a prized comity. I let Anna sleep on the top bunk whilst i was in the middle, I know i know i'm a gent. However it's also a self preservation thing as well becasue Anna is convinced that someone will a) kidnap her in the middle of the night, b) steal her bag or c) all of the above. So i let her sleep on the top just so i won't have someone waking me up at 3 in the morning because an India person has just walked past her head! (which when you are on a carridge of 78 people is quite a common ocurance.

So we are now safely back in Delhi and arrival at the station was alot easier given we were met this time by the travel company. Anna is currently sleeping in the room, us having just eaten and had some delecious sweet lassi's (it would be so easy to get fat in india curry 3 times a day and a brilliant yoghurt based drink, i am really having to control myself).

This is really it for the blogging since we now move to the Metorpolitan hotel for 7 nights as a bit of a holiday. Relax by the pool, work out in the gym or have a spa treatment (anna has been eying those up!). Maybe even have a beer for the first time in 14 days. I tell you my body does not quite know what's happening it must be the flongest break from alcohol since i was 17. So i hope that you have enjoyed reading the blog even half as much as we have enjoyed telling all the tales (good and bad) we've got up to. Thankyou so much for reading it's been lovely to hear all the message that people have sent us.

We return to the UK on  27th June arrive 1.15 i think on BA flight from Delhi, so i fully expect crowds of people, a full piece band, posters and placards annnoucing our arrival. I invisage a scene much like that when the beatles would return to the UK in their hayday. So thats really all. Take care everyone and i'm sure we'll see all of you at some point after our return.

Lots of Love

Thomas and Anna xxx





Tuesday 16th June 2009 - Varanasi

Hey everyone. So lots to catch up on.

On our final day in Delhi we went to the Lotus temple which looks very similar to Sydney opera house. Amazing builing surrounded by pools and very quiet and pieceful inside. We had to take our shoes off however and burnt our feet walking on the stone tiles up to the temple!! We also when to a Huamgun (or something like that)'s tomb. It is like a red Taj Mahal and really big. Our driver took us to a very nice local restaurant for a late lunch which was very yummy.

The following morning our driver picked us up to start our 7hour journey to Pushkar, SW of Delhi. Arrived late and pretty much crashed out. Can safely say that 7 hours in a car in India is not our idea of fun and even the AC doesnt help. Puskar is a very little and extremely spiritual place in the middle of nowhere with lots of temples and a holy lake in the middle. In the morning we decided to take a walk around the town (no cars aloud in the centre). Oh my god it was so much worse than Delhi!! It was like we were in a zoo. We couldnt walk more than 10 paces without the usual 'where you from' 'what you do' 'are you married'. As tom said earlier they are just being friendly normally but here there were more people trying to con you and get you to buy lots of stuff. We finally made it through all this to the lake and a priest blessed us! not entirely sure what he said but hope it was good lol! We did then look in one temple but both were so tired and fed up of the hassle of walking around we went and sort refuge in the hotel for the rest of the day (only lasted 1.5 hours outside). This day was our low of travelling and both were pretty fed up and missing home. Well all part of the experience eh?! Luckily the trip picked up from here.

 

The next morning we drove to Jaipur, aka the pink city due to the pink sand stone they build out of there. very nice hotel and spent rest of day relaxing and having a nice dinner. The following morning we visited the Amber fort. This is where the original site of Jaipur was. It is HUGE and pretty impressive so enjoyed walking round for the morning.

continued

Also while walking up to it we came face to face with an elephant which was really cool. In the afternoon we were taken to a factory where they made lots of textiles and carpets. It was incredible - it was like a Aladins Cave. So many colours and fabrics all round the room. You could buy anything from scarves to bedcovers to wallhangings. Had a nice nosey about and then discovered that they also made tailor made suits for men. As you can imagine Thomas jumped at the chance as he needs a new one for Deloitte. He choose a really nice black with a very subtle red/rust colour pin stripe in wool. very swish. We came back the next day for a fitting. It looks so nice. They are also shipping it home for him and it will infact arrive before him. All for a price less than the cheapest M&S ones you get off the self - bargin!

The next day we left for Ranthanbhore and i'll pass you over to Thomas for this. Well what can I say about Ranthambhore except it was one of the highlights of the entire trip for us both. Ranthambhore is 5 hours south of Delhi right next to a National Park. The night we arrived we had a lovely curry in the hotel and hit the hay. (I must say we pretty much always have nice curries it's brilliant!) Early next morning we set out on a safari around the Park. We clocked up monkey, antelope, deer, moongoose and peacock sightings. But after around an hour came the big one. After waiting for around 10 minutes there was some movement about 15ft from our safari truck. This was went we set eyes on a massive male bengal tiger. Cool as you like he just walked around the undergrowth, not fazed by the spectators, crossed over the drit track we came along and dissappeared again. It was absolutely amazing to be so close to one of the world most fearsome predators. We both were riding a high after that and the rest of the safari was a daze.

Well we'll leave you there for now as we're going for dinner (curry and we haven't eaten for 24 hours save a few peanuts so unbelieveably hungry). We will continue the tour stories tomorrow so tune back in. We have no signal in Varanasi so parents don't panic. Meet again soon

Lots of Love Thomas and Anna xxx



Sunday 7th June 2009 - New Delhi (but in the old delhi part)

Well hello from Thomas and India. I hope everyone of you apreciates that i am writing this 40 minutes beofre the french open final where Federer may finally become the greatest player of all time. But I thought no i could watch the warm up and pre-game but i'll write a blog for the CAST fans although really it's now AT fans or TA fans.

So we arrived in Delhi early at 9pm with a ground temp of 38C but no humidity. I must say going through Passport control with the H1N1 stuff is painfull. That coupled with India's idea of queuing made it excrutiating (the queuing system is much worse that the europeans skiers, and consists of where theres a whole you MUST fill it. And it is law to stand within 1cm of the person infront, you may think i'm exaggerating just come to India and see for yourself).

The taxi ride was aranged by the hotel for us which was lovely and we arrived at the hotel at 11.30pm local time (1.5hrs difference to Thailand). The hotel is situated down the scariest alley in the world and there is no way you would know it's here unless your stod in front of it. Having said that they are extremely helpfull and make sure you are comfortable.

We got up late this morning and after breaking the fast took our first steps in daylight in Delhi. To say that this was a culture shock would be on a par with saying GW Bush was a cuddy, loving president. Not only are we the only westerners which everyone stares at but i have to walk around with a blonde one of them. Noone can keep their eyes of us and they love Anna, heads turn as we walk down the street. It's really quite disconcerting but they don't mean harm or malice we were told it's just none of them have seen white people before.

So our first walk took us to the Red Fort near our hotel which , with it's 2.4km perimeter is very impressive. After queuing in the 43C heat and buying our ticket (5 times more expensive than the locals because foreigners have a speacial price) we alked around the fort. Built in 1658 by the then leader of india, who was the ifirst to use Delhi as the capital. Very impressive fort and the brick work was amazing.

We returned to the hotel to cool down and take vital fluids onboard. We organised our next 10days booking a tour which goes around what they call the "golden triangle" and then took a taxi guide around someother sights. The most impressive of these being the parliment buildings. Bigger, more spacious and grander than those in London. A road leading from here was the India Gate a pretty good replica of the Champs-Elysees leading to the arc de triomphe. Whilst driving down this road we saw ocountles games of cricket being played. Cricket is absolutely massive here, it is on all the T.V's, talked about constantly and with the twenty20 world cup on at the mo excitement is a fever level. (They love telling me how England are terrible because we lost to a non-proffesional Holand team)

The driving in Delhi is also extremely suspect. At one point today we were reversing the wrong way down a highway because the guide missed the turn. The funny thing is even though the horn is constantly used here it wasn't on us. Which got me thinking that this was a legitimate driving technique if you miss a turn. We also have numerous near misses and at one point Anna spoted 6 people on a 100cc motor bike, figure that out!

This evening we're eating in the hotel as nowhere is open on a sunday. Then tomorrow we're doing some more tourist stuff before heading out on our tour. So thats all for now, we'll keep you posted and i've finished in time to watch Roland Garros. Take care and keep reading.

Love Thomas and Anna